Muddy Consequences

So I live Beppu, Japan’s onsen capital and have the pleasure of enjoying any number of the many diverse hot springs around the city. Some are big, some are scorching hot, some are outdoor, all are naked, and a few have mud. I’d never experienced the mud onsen until two weeks ago when a couple friends were visiting and we opted to try it out.

The mud onsen is an old establishment up in the hills of Beppu near some authentic steam vents that bellow hot steam out all the time. The scene of white hissing clouds spewing out of the earth is impressive and makes you think, “Will Beppu blow up one day?”

Our party of four arrived and followed a long covered wooden outdoor walkway (that’s a lot of adjectives) to the changing room and mud pools. The facilities were rather Spartan with only stone floors and utilitarian water facets. But we weren’t here for the shower; we were here for the mud!

The prime pool was outdoor and was pretty warm with dirty water on top, and squishy, make you go, “Oh ewww, gross!” mud on the bottom. We waded in and floated around and read the sign about “not putting mud on the head”. The water was fun, but I was imagining more mud—covering me from head to toe—sucking out toxins and enriching my skin. I reached down to the bottom of the pool and scooped up a handful of the earth slim. It oozed in my hand…daring me to smear it on. I laughed and did so…and was soon a monstrous swamp thing (except for my hair/head because of the sign).

After a repeated process of smearing, washing off, and smearing some more, we decided we’d had enough mud and headed out. There were only two showers to wash off with…and no soap was allowed (these place was serious about their mud)…so I was a bit concerned about my level of cleanliness upon leaving the onsen. Oh how this thought would come to haunt me…

Natural onsens often have a sulfur smell associated with them and the mud I was so excitedly covering myself with was full of the rotten egg odor. I had been warned that the mud-sulfur smell would linger…but I didn’t expect it to be too bad.

Several days passed…and I still smelled a bit odd. I had showered, but there was still a smell. All the clothes I wore took on the smell…as well as bed sheets and even my car. It was like a minor, kind of boring nightmare.

Finally, after about four days, the smell was gone. I was free. And I highly recommend the mud onsen to all visitors of Beppu.

Julie and Paul?! You guys coming to visit??